The latest watches that serial collectors have added to their wish lists

For a little more glamour, and if you haven’t been able to get your hands on the Audemars Piguet of your dreams, Girard-Perregaux has a 42mm Laureato that it describes as a “symphony of shapes and hues”, which comes in polished and brushed. rose gold with black onyx dial. An $80,000 proposal, that’s a nice thing.

PanoMatic-Calendar from Glashütte Original. Revamped 39mm Tudor Ranger. Girard-Perregaux 42mm Laureate.

If you want a bit more obvious watchmaking on your wrist, not to mention something blatantly special, Glashütte Original offers the PanoMaticCalendar. This is their first annual calendar model with a movement that automatically accounts for the difference in the number of days in a month.

Smart operation aside, what captivates is the typical Teutonic look of the watch, with off-center indications of the day, the big date, the month and the moon phase. With a 42mm extension, it comes in gold and platinum cutwork versions, around $40,000 for gold, $60,000 for platinum.

Given these prices, we arrive with some relief at Tudor’s latest release. The brand has been enjoying a run thanks to its Black Bay range, which it positions as an accessible Rolex. Tudor’s newcomer is a revamped Ranger, a sub-$4000 watch that epitomizes tool watch simplicity.

At 39mm in size, it’s reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer 1, and while it could be argued that it would probably look even better with the latter’s 36mm, its seriously uncluttered approach (big numbers and refreshingly small text) sets it apart from most. contemporary watches.

Straddling contemporary and vintage, bold and restrained, the interiors (chronometer-rated with 70-hour reserve) and brushed finish are as modern as any, while the details (domed glass, high readability) they are comforting rather than flashy.

It wouldn’t be surprising if that alone gives the unassuming Ranger the kind of “it” factor that many collections lack.

The fashion issue of AFR magazine comes out on Friday August 26 inside The Australian Financial Review.

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